To carry on the charisma of Pâte à chou Ocean collection, 45R is thrilled to launch the Country series curated and designed by 45R’s Vice President & Designer – Yasumi Inoue that tells the story of her beliefs and fashion philosophy through 45R’s passion of “Monozukuri”.
Attracted to vintage vibes, Yasumi sanloves to infuse retro ideas, elements, and old stories in her designs. Clothes, accessories or small goods that she bought from flea markets all over the world become the inspiration of the Pâte à chou collection. Red, beige and blue are the fundamental colours of 45R, which are incorporated on 45R old logo and featured in this Country series. From selection of fabrics to ways of knitting, from silhouette design to add-on craftmanship, every single pick and detail runs with the designer’s blood and portrays a refined yet unique nostalgic hue.
For Yasumi-san, Pâte à chou is a truly one-of-a-kind collection, never to be repeated.
Wherever possible, it features work done by hand rather than with sewing machine.
Yasumi-san intentionally shrugged off the standard limitations of monozukuri(manufacturing)
in order to put her heart and soul into designing exactly the kind of garments she loves best.
The Challenge of Nai Monozukuri
“The spirit of nai monozukuri-making things that do not yet exist, but should-is the starting point for everything 45R does. For Pâte à chou, we are challenging ourselves to greater heights of artisanship. We make regular use of hand-spun Indian khadi, but we have never made T-shirts from it before. The yarn is thin and fragile, which makes knitting Tenjiku very, very difficult, but fact that you cannot find it anywhere else makes the result invaluable. Or take the lace-from a productivity perspective, commercializing handmade lace is a challenge in this day and age, but for Pâte à chou we knitted and sewed everything by hand, stitch by stitch, just like people used to.”
Another interesting fact: all the boots used for Pâte à chou’s styling are from the same manufacturer.
The Vendée Globe is famous for being the most grueling round-the-world yacht race of all. Most sailors who attempt it do so wearing boots by Dubarry of Ireland. Made from a combination of natural leather and Gore-Tex, these are true outdoor boots, perfectly waterproof but moisture-permeable. At every 45R store where Pâte à chou is sold, boots from Dubarry will be on the shelves as well.
Passion in Fabric
Zakkuri cotton linen, typewriter clothes, khadi, and gauze fleece woven in special treatment only for 45R creates a raw and vintage touch. With the fabric featured on maxi one-piece dress or oversize shirt, the simple and cozy style is delicately presented.
Obsession with way of knitting
Various exquisite techniques are employed to create the sensational collection. The preciousness and refined craftmanship of homespun, beaded crochet, patchwork or felted Jacquard items can be easily visible to unaided eyes. From choices of raw materials, yarn production to fabric development and factory partner, the meticulous process truly reflects the philosophy and belief in garment making.
Devote to Ai and nature
Inspired by Chinese procelain, the blue and white Zimbabwe cotton floral dress elegantly demonstrated with Ai natural indigo-based discharge to associate the beauty of mountain. The furatabi denim fringe dress is made by the leftover classic Sorahikohime denim fabric, combined with generous width of cotton fabric for to create a volume, feminine yet iconic piece that presents ingenuity of the brand.
A small touch of details can grab one’s attention and even help to enhance the value. The silk ribbons at the back of the Zakkuri linen dress collide with rough and heavy texture creates a balance of boyish-girl style. The little jacquard alpaca icon, colourful floral embroidery and adorable frill collar add cute and girlish finishing touch for the collection.