Light. An invisible power. A transformative force. While we can’t see light itself, the way it’s reflected, refracted and absorbed allows us to perceive all colours and shapes around us. And as it interacts with the world, it, too, finds a form of physical expression, never more magnificently than when it touches a diamond, bringing nature’s beauty to life.
Inspired by this natural, elemental magic, De Beers Jewellers has created The Alchemist of Light, its latest High Jewellery collection. Comprising seven sets totalling 45 one-of-a-kind pieces, the collection will be launched in two chapters. On 24th January at Couture Week in Paris, the first chapter will reveal the spectacular Atomique and Light Rays sets, while the second will be unveiled at Paris Couture Week in July.
“Our new The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection represents the pinnacle of diamond expertise and artistry,” says Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers. “These daring designs push creative and technical boundaries, inspired by the exceptional diamonds that De Beers is able to source, cut and polish to the most exacting standards. A sublime fusion of art and science, precision and imagination, tradition and modernity. We understand and care passionately that our clients not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art, but also bring another layer to the creative story. In this respect, our clients are true alchemists of light, too.”
In pure white diamonds, the Atomique set, with its seven astonishing pieces, is a creative interpretation of a diamond at a molecular level, depicted by geometric patterns and abstract motifs. The monochromatic scheme of exceptional white diamonds, set in 18k white gold, reflects the pristine clarity of a diamond’s prismatic makeup. Shapes are bold and modern, becoming as one with the wearer, each piece as powerful as the alchemist who gives it light.
The astounding Atomique Collar Necklace is a work of precision, craftsmanship and design ingenuity. It features an intriguing molecular interconnection of round brilliant diamonds, showcasing an exceptional 18.57 carat, internally flawless diamond at its centre. Its sculptural shape has a bombé profile, giving it a contemporary feel, and with a total of 1,907 diamonds, the dramatic and distinctive impact of this design cannot be denied.
The rest of the set includes a ring showcasing a breathtaking 11.03 carat round brilliant exceptional diamond from our Natural Works of Art collection and a double open ring in which two contrasting motifs appear to float like satellites. Hoop earrings, each composed of two diverging yet interconnected circles are inspired by a diamond’s crystalline patterning. The Atomique Necklace, a portrait of contemporary versatility – its supple line of exquisitely set diamonds, suspended from a diamond pave-set choker, can be removed and attached to a stud earring.
With its contemporary aesthetic, the Light Rays set, comprising nine pieces, is a striking visual interpretation of sunlight radiating over mountaintops or from behind dark clouds at the moment of peak perfection in the sky. Breaking new design ground, fancy colour rough and polished diamonds in warm tones are amplified by glowing coloured titanium shaped in fan motifs. In contrast, lines of white diamonds are set against dramatic black rhodium-plated gold, representing shafts of light, emanating from shadows.
Pieces are supremely supple, with its metal rays and rows of diamonds free to move independently, achieved by the technical mastery of micro-articulation. This adds both a mesmerising visual dimension and a sensuous tactile quality, producing a fringed and fluid feel, enhanced by the layering of colours that create a dip-dye effect.
The various shades of the titanium are created using a process called anodization, a spontaneous and natural reaction that occurs on the metal’s surface when it is immersed in an alkaline solution and an electric current is introduced. Extraordinary care is required to immerse and retrieve each part without leaving any trace marks. Given colours develop as a natural response, the result is hypoallergenic and 100 per cent biocompatible with the skin.
All pieces in the collection are sublime statements of individuality, with many of those in the Light Rays set offering surprising detachable elements that give the wearer even greater freedom of expression. At the heart of the breathtaking Light Rays Collar Necklace sits a 4.22 carat fancy brownish yellow radiant-cut diamond, amplified by metal rays in anodised titanium and black rhodium plated gold and articulated lines of tapering white diamonds. The striking black collar can be detached for a more minimalist statement.
The Light Rays set also includes an elegant tasselled pendant, which can be detached and used as a handbag charm; a jacket ring starring a 1.08 carat fancy vivid orange yellow square emerald-cut diamond, which is articulated to drape across the finger, the detachable Light Rays motif offering a three-way transformation; and a flamboyant ear cuff featuring a 1 carat fancy deep brownish yellow radiant-cut diamond from which bands of titanium undulate towards the shoulder.