For Summer 2023, FENDI introduces the Astrology capsule: a swim and beachwear collection created for every star sign under the sun. Drawing on iconic collections from the House’s archives, Spring/Summer 1990 and Spring/Summer 1993, alongside key codes established by Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear Kim Jones, this is a reflection of FENDI’s past and present, curated for the summer ahead.
Starring a palette of white, pink, blue, brown, orange and black adapted from FENDI’s recent ready-to-wear offering, alongside the written signs of the zodiac (in English and Italian) and astrological prints originally drawn by Karl Lagerfeld, there is a bold irreverence to the collection which taps into FENDI’s innate sense of fun and functionality. The same sporty silhouettes once worn on the 1993 runway become this season’s statement swimwear, now materialised in recycled lycra and presented in a multi-purpose waterproof pochette which can be adapted to carry summertime essentials.
Elsewhere, a fresh array of ready-to-wear is designed to transition from days by the pool to long evenings in the sun. A sense of easy elegance appears throughout: draped satin kaftans and dresses as well as separates and blousons featuring the Astrology print are designed to be layered over swimwear; silk foulards appear to be knotted askew with a chic insouciance. FENDI’s unparalleled craftsmanship is evident in an array of languid summer knits – from airy crochet dresses subtly inset with the FF logo, to body-skimming viscose and boyish cashmere jumpers. Sun-bleached denim and silk jersey complete the offer with a gentle sportswear inflection and a distinctly contemporary touch.
Menswear by Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear Silvia Venturini Fendi adopts a similar energy: louche tailoring and slouching fits designed to suit the sentiment of the season. Astrology-printed silk shirts, nylon boardshorts and jersey Ts make the perfect beachfront wardrobe while silk and cotton separates, alongside denim and gabardine outerwear, present elevated accompaniments. Signature bags and footwear styles are reworked in a co-ordinating palette of shadow leather blue and beige, including a hand-sprayed and brushed FENDI Cloud slider and FENDI Flow trainer together with the FENDI O’ Lock summer moccasin, while a men’s Baguette Soft Trunk appears illustrated with the symbols of the zodiac.
For women, an accompanying array of accessories correspond with the summertime spirit of the capsule. Striped and woven handbags pay homage to the Mediterranean coastal beachfront and animate iconic styles, while the intricacies of their craftsmanship reflects FENDI’s renowned savoir-faire. Meticulous astrological embroideries embellish seasonal iterations of the iconic Peekaboo and Baguette bags and also the FENDI First, whose zodiac expressions appear through colourful threads and pearls sewn across denim, canvas and jacquard bodies. A bold new canvas Peekaboo completely embodies the inspirations of the capsule, printed with Karl Lagerfeld’s zodiac illustrations and finished with Selleria stitching. Elsewhere, straw, canvas and denim become foundational materials: straw woven into the bodies of bags, braided into Peekaboo bags, or used for a fringe effect across the FENDI First. An illusory embroidery technique using glass beads and sequins gives the appearance of straw tufting to a striking Baguette and Peekaboo Mini. The introduction of a new beach-friendly shopper in raffia, alongside the summery FENDI Step Out bucket bag in leather or straw ensures a wealth of options for the season. Debuting in a medium and mini size, the ‘cuoio’ leather version of the FENDI Step Out is padded and stitched to form the FENDI logo in an exquisite maroquinerie workmanship and is enriched with an FF jacquard or striped inner.
In shoes, the Baguette heel is applied to a strappy sandal and a mid-heel pump, while the iconic FENDI First heel is reworked in raffia and rope to suit the season. A knotted slide, a double-banded slide and a new summer sandal are also debuted.
An assortment of jewelry completes the collection: the astrological signs are reinterpreted by Artistic Director of Jewelry Delfina Delettrez Fendi in the form of sleek charms that can be worn as a mono-earring or as a necklace pendant thanks to a little crystal stud. Combined together, the twelve astrological signs create an exclusive eye-catching statement necklace, while bold fabric bracelets match the ready-to-wear line-up, featuring the zodiac signs and signatures from the archive. Completing the offer, a silver ring and necklace for Men’s are designed to be personalised in store through the addition of an enamel fiche decorated with the wearer’s star sign.