Paris, February 12, 1947. On a chilly morning, the doors of the hôtel particulier at 30 Avenue Montaigne opened for the first time to clients and journalists. Behind the typically Parisian façade – which would soon become iconic around the world – there was a flurry of activity. Then came the long-awaited moment – the défilé, The message behind each of its creations being to make women more beautiful and happier following the dark years of the war. This rebirth of desire was embodied by names that speak for themselves – the first line being called Corolle. And, along with the collection’s second line En huit, it would make history.
Among all the pieces, there is one that particularly dazzled the audience: the Bar suit, recognizable by its extremely slim embraced waist, its soft shoulders, its emphasized basques highlighting the hips, and its flared skirt.
Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of American magazine Harper’s Bazaar, exclaimed, at the sight of this bewitching spectacle: “It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian. Your dresses have such a New Look.” The die was cast, the destiny of the designer was changed: the New Look was born, and it was a triumph. “No matter how happy I may be in life, nothing can surpass what I felt at that moment,” recalled Christian Dior when thinking back on the collection’s dazzling success – a veritable upheaval in the history of fashion and couture. Through these silhouettes, Christian Dior defined much more than a style – he freed women to affirm their powers of seduction, framing their bodies, in movement.
With its pure, architectural lines, this masterpiece has naturally inspired Monsieur Dior’s successors, like Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, driven by the power of her feminist vision, has revisited this exceptional piece as part of her collections for Dior, notably by collaborating with contemporary artists. Season after season, the Bar jacket reveals a reborn beauty that transcends eras, asserting its status as an eternal icon.
The House is unveiling the campaign for the Maria Grazia Chiuri-designed Dior autumn-winter 2022 – 2023 ready-to-wear line. The emblematic Bar jacket is adorned with technical inserts created in collaboration with Italian start-up D-Air lab* exalt the ateliers’ virtuoso savoir-faire.
These images that symbolize power, strength and passion stand as an ode to Dior’s inventiveness, linking past, present and future.
* D-Air lab is an innovative Italian start-up founded in 2015 by Lino Dainese. Architect Silvia Dainese Gris is leading this special project for Dior.